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During
the eighty years of the Nawabi rule in Lucknow three new
palace complexes were built and the old fort of the Sheikhzadas
modified. Initially, after coming to power, Macchi Bhawan,
the fortified palace of the Sheikhs was rented by Nawab
Burhan-ul-Mulk. By 1766 it was largely improved and extended
by the later Nawabs. The next palace complex, Daulat Khana,
was built by Nawab Asaf-uddaula in around 1780 to the north
of Macchi Bhawan. Nawab Saadat Ali Khan made Chattar Manzil
palace to the south of the Macchi Bhawan in 1803. Finally
Nawab Wajid Ali Shah built the Kaiserbagh palace, the most
elaborate and grand complex of Nawabi Lucknow.
Wajid
Ali Shah started the construction of the Kaiserbagh as soon
as he ascended the throne in 1847. It was located in the
southeast corner of the Chattar Manzil palace. Wajid Ali
Shah was a great patron of poetry and music. He was himself
an accomplished poet and has written several poems. It is
said that he named his cavalry in the most poetic manner
such as 'banka' (Dandy), 'ghanghur' (Dark), and 'akhtari'
(Lucky). In the Kaiserbagh he dreamed of a palace complex
that would be a paradise on earth with large gardens that
would be an ideal place for his very many dance dramas and
general poetic temperament.
The
concept of Paradise promised in the Holy Koran consists
of several terraces of garden, each more beautiful than
the last. The recreation of Paradise as a garden is a tradition
passed onto the Nawabs by the Mughals. In Lucknow not only
were the courtyards within the earlier palaces designed
like gardens with fruit trees, flowing water fountains,
and fragrant flowers, there were many more walled gardens
in the suburbs of the city especially developed for animal
fights, as orchards, or with small villas for hunting. Wajid
Ali Shah visualized a palace complex, which amalgamated
all the intricacies of a paradise garden. Paintings and
photographs taken before 1857 show Kaiserbagh to have a
manicured garden at the heart of the palace. As compared
to the other palace complexes, Kaiserbagh is probably the
only one that was designed before execution. An important
aspect of the palace complex was it's planning with intentional
hierarchy of spaces. A visitor was made to move from one
court to another and the visitor a sense of awe for the
royal court. In a way it was a showcase of the riches of'
the kings. The indirect and zigzag movement through the
courts confused the visitors. The path felt longer and more
complicated than it often was. This lack of clarity, with
guards posted at the numerous gates also helped maintain
a strict security within the palace.
There
were three principal parts of the complexes. Firstly, the
public areas where the king met his officials and subjects
and where large melas and functions like coronation
took place. These areas were open to the public and subjects
of the king. These courts also had religious buildings like
the Friday mosque and temples. The second important part
of the palace complex was the residential quarters of the
king along with his offices, library, the treasury, hammams,
private mosque etc. And finally there were the residential
quarters of the queens. Since each Muslim ruler had a large
number of queens, the zenana formed a bulky part
of the whole palace complex. This was located in the innermost
part of the complex and was strictly guarded by female attendants
and eunuchs. Only the king and selected guests were allowed
to enter these spaces. Kaiserbagh fulfils all the necessary
aspects of planning and hierarchy with a distinct movement
pattern within the complex
The
palace was approached from the Hazratganj Street and entered
from an open space in front of the Tarawali kothi (SBI guesthouse).
The Entrance Street was lined on one side by stables. Referring
the maps made during the 1850s it may be assumed that this
was the gate where the Press club is located today. The
king used to give audience to the public from this gate.
It was high enough to allow the royal procession on elephants
to pass through. Some accounts of travelers note that from
the Jilaun Khana the prisoners were conducted to
the prison towards the end of the passage.
Turning
to the right after entering from the Jilaun Khana the visitor
came to the China Bazaar so named because it probably
sold or was decorated with material bought from China. At
the end of the China Bazaar was the Mermaid gate
or the China Bazaar gate. Nawab Wajid Ali's Prime Minister,
Nawab Ali Naqvi Khan, used to stay on top of this gate so
architecture can be made from old photographs. The gates
had a pediment on top and two green coloured mermaids are
stuccoed above the arched gateway hence the name of 'Mermaid
gate'.
The
Mermaid gate led to a garden called Hazrat Bagh or Chowk.
This garden supposedly had a large tree under which Wajid
Ali Shah use to sit during 'Jogia nieta'. He would
dress up in saffron clothes and enact out musical dance
dramas like Krishna Leela, Inder Sabha, and Raas Leela with
female attendants. The Hazrat Bagh was enclosed on the left
by the Chaulakhi Kothi and to the right by Badshah Bagh
and Huzoor Bagh which were the residential quarters of the
king. Moving straight ahead the visitor would pass through
the Lakhi gate to the main walled garden, which is called
Kaiserbagh today. A lakh of rupees were spent on making
the Lakhi gate thus the name.
In
appearance the palace complex was a series of courtyards,
both large and small, usually enclosed by walls of different
heights. Within these walled enclosures, large independent
structures were integrated either within the courtyards
or along the walled enclosures to form an integral whole.
No one building assumed undue prominence over another. Another
with the help of link ways and passageways making it difficult
to ascertain where one structure started joined one building
and another ended. Kaiserbagh had such large buildings like
Kaiser Pasand, Chaulakhi, Lanka, and the tombs, all
enclosed by walled structures. The Chaulakhi Kothi was made
by Wajid Ali Shah's barber Azim-ullah Khan. While making
the palace complex, the Nawab confiscated the building and
made it a part of his palace. During the First War of Independence
it was supposedly the residence of Begum Hazrat Mahal.
The
Huzoor Bagh was the royal garden with the king's apartments
on three sides and a Baradari in the centre, probably the
Chandiwali Baradari. Facing the south for the winter sun
was the Shahenshan manzil. The other two sides had Makan-e-Khas
and Falak Sair occupied by the king during rainy
and summer seasons. The British demolished all these buildings
in 1858.
What
remains today is part of the main Kaiserbagh quadrangle
known as the 'Paree khana' where the queens of the
King lived. The quadrangle was an enclosed garden with the
Sufaid Baradari in the Centre, a small mosque, many small
marble pavilions and kiosks, and a large tent like structure
called Lanka. Lanka was demolished and in it's place stands
the Aminu- ud-daula library. It was an elevated platform
supported by eight pillars with water flowing through it.
Wajid Ali Shah used it during the monsoons. Some people
believe that it was not one building but collectively the
Kaiserbagh palace complex was called lanka due to its impregnable
position.
The
residential quarters of the ladies, surrounding the main
quadrangle, were houses with large courtyards, two storeys
high, and no windows on the exterior. The residential quarters
were later partitioned and allotted to the Rajas and Taluqdars
of Awadh and are till date in their possession. Within the
Kaiserbagh were two markets, Meena Bazaar
and Kaptan Bazaar, exclusively for the use
of the royal women.
The
palace complexes of the Nawabs like Kaiserbagh were similar
to those of the Mughals and other Indian rulers. They were
a city within a city. Each palace accommodated the residential
quarters of the king, his queens, the court officials, the
Diwan-e-am and the Diwan-e-khas, mosques, baradaris, enclosed
gardens for entertainment, kitchens, servant quarters, the
treasury, hammams, stables, markets, etc. Baradaris have
been a regular feature being used in simply articulating
a garden space for housing libraries and holding coronations.
The kings also held court in these structures. The Sufaid
Baradari is one such structure continues till date to be
a cultural centre within the Kaiserbagh.
The
Kaiserbagh quadrangle is entered and exited through
two identical gates known as out of the complex towards
the Kaiser Pasand located at the southwest corner of the
Kaiserbagh palace. This building was made by Roshan-ud-daula
but like Wajid Ali Shah confiscated Chaulakhi Kothi when
he made the palace complex and renamed it Kaiser Pasand.
One of his favourite ladies, Begum Mashuq Mahal, used to
reside there. Interestingly the elevation of the Lakhi Gate
and Kaisar Pasand mirror the elevation of Constantia, built
in 1800 by Claude Martin, which had two crossed arches imaging
a dome as the pinnacle of the building. The architecture
of the buildings, like other Nawabi structures, is a fusion
of both Mughal and European classical examples.
Turning
to the right one would pass through the Sher Darwaza to
the Chattar Manzil complex. Between the Chattar Manzil palace
and the Kaiserbagh was another court, which housed the tombs
of Nawab Sadat Ali Khan and his Begum Khrushidzadi. The
tombs still exist but are devoid of their elaborate enclosures
and gates. The graves of the family members of the Nawab
are housed
within the tombs.
Thus,
the Kaiserbagh sprawled between the Chattar Manzil to the
Tarawati kothi in the north to the Roshan-ud-daulti kothi
and Chaulaki kothi in the south. It was joined to the Chattar
Manzil by a series of courtyards. Even though the palace
complex accommodate a multitude of people and offices, they
were not self-sufficient and did not have the kind of resources
that would allow them to exist independently from their
surrounding towns. These palace complexes never threatened
the traditional functions of the town and city. On the contrary,
because these complexes were not self sufficient, the outer
periphery of the palace became thickly populated to provide
luxuries and necessities to the royal court.
Although
the palace was not fortified, it was not easily penetrable
because of its concentric enclosures made it difficult for
the enemy to the palace was fortified by the dense city
with narrow and labyrinthine streets. Therefore it is easy
to understand why Kaiserbagh was called Lanka. During the
First war of Independence it became the fort of the Nawabi
army. It put up a tough resistance and had to be demolished
enclosure by enclosure before it fell to the British. The
demolition and destruction of Kaiserbagh is as important
a part of its history as it's making.
With
the annexation of Awadh on 13th February 1856, and Nawab
Wajid Ali Shah exiled to Calcutta soon after, the Nawabi
court passed in the hands of his son Prince Brijis Qadar
with Begum Hazrat Mahal as the guardian. It was she who
fortified Kaiserbagh and bravely fought the British from
May 1857 to March 1858 when Lucknow and Kaiserbagh fell
in the hands of the British. W.H. Russell's graphic description
of the capture of Kaiserbagh shows that British Soldiers
ran amok, smashing doors and breaking into rooms in search
of portable loot. The things that they could not carry like
marble statues, furniture, heavy draperies and massive jade
bowls, they striated in a frenzy of destruction. But it
was not the loot, which damaged the palace as much as the
British attitude to demolish Kaiserbagh and the city of
Lucknow.
After
the siege it had become clear to the British military that
large palace complexes such as Kaiserbagh, mosques, and
big kothis must be seized and demolished since they provided
convenient shelter to the enemy Indian forces. A letter
from the Secretary of the Chief Commission to the Commissioner
of Oudh clearly stated that, " It is not by an indiscriminate
massacre of the wretched sepoys that we should avenge our
kindred." Instead, it read, they should totally destroy
the city of Lucknow so that the "mutineers were taught
a lesson". The letter further stated that only those
buildings should be preserved, "as may be requisite
for our own military or other purposes. No mosque- no temple
should be spared." Another- letter stated that, "As
to Buildings in Lucknow, the only one that I think it might
be well to level to the Ground is the Kaiserbagh as that
is the palace where our chief' energies have resided during
the rebellion." The death sentence was thus passed
over Kaiserbagh. The work of reshaping the unhealthy and
indefensible city of Lucknow was given to Colonel Robert
Napier of the Bengal Engineers. He produced a document known
as the Memorandum on the Military Occupation of the City
of Lucknow,' dated 26 March 1858. Therein he proposed to
open broad streets through the city and to demolish any
enclosures not required for military purposes. Anything
that came in the path of the proposed road was demolished.
As a result, Kaiserbagh was slowly demolished and had wide
streets passing through its main courtyards.
The
whole of the southern wall was demolished together with
the Chaulakhi Kothi. Gradually the freestanding buildings
inside the Kaiserbagh were demolished. Slowly the northern
walls of the Kaiserbagh also vanished. Some enclosures became
weak and collapsed as a result of structural instability.
The passageways between Kaiserbagh and Chattar Manzil disappeared
with the exception of Sher Darwaza. This gate had an emotive
significance for the British because one of the relieving
officers died under the gate and it was renamed Neil's gate
after him. The tombs were stripped off their enclosures
and they stood starkly by themselves. Kaiser Pasand was
denuded of its upper storeys.
No
other building of Lucknow was as glorious as Kaiserbagh
and none other was mutilated as badly. Today it requires
great effort and imagination to recreate the vision of the
palace complex as only a few structures of the Kaiserbagh
palace remain. The important among these are Sufaid Baradari,
some parts of Paree Khana, and the Lakhi gates. Sher Darwaza
and the two tombs. The two tombs are protected monuments
and well looked after by the Archeological Survey of India.
The Baradari is used as a community hall and the Lakhi gates
are in dilapidated condition whereas the Sher darwaza looks
much diminished in size in most of it plinth has been silt.
The Paree Khana has been modified beyond recognition. The
presences of Lakhori bricks in these structures confirm
their association with the palace complex. Two new buildings
the Aminu-ud-daula library and Bhatkhande College of music
are part of the main Kaiserbagh quadrangle. As the whole
with the streets piercing in through the main quadrangular
and heavy traffic plying through them, the essence of the
garden palace is difficult to recreate. |