Magic of the thread

When one talks about the refinement in style Lucknow figures as a superlative. A center de art where even alien art forms flourished to high degree of refinement and amalgamated in the lifestyle of Lucknow as if these originated and flourished here itself.

‘Chikan' – style of embroidery, is one such art that came from Persia but now is known with a prefix of Lucknow, ‘Lucknow Chikan'. Chikan originated primarily from Persia but there are two major theories taking rounds regarding the Chikan work, I found this one interesting at least to tickle my lighter veins. Nawab Wajid Ali Shah a great patron of art in all its form had 365 concubines one for each day, these so called royal wives lived in the Kaiserbagh and Chowk, as each lady got only a day to spend with the Nawab they had to do something extra-ordinary to attract the attention of the king. One lady to pass the boring hours in the harem stitched a cap for the king and decorated it with simple but delicate white thread embroidery, this cap was later presented to the Nawab and the trick worked. Nawab started giving more attention to this queen and other queens followed the suit creating a creative pool of Chikankari in Lucknow .

The other theory narrates that; Ustad Mohammad Sher Khan who was a poor peasant and tilled the ground near Lucknow learned this art from a traveller as a parting gift. A traveller while passing through the village on a hot summer afternoon asked for water from Ustad Mohammad Sher Khan. Ustad felt pity on the plight of the traveller and invited him to rest under the shade of his house, before resuming his journey. The traveller was so pleased with the hospitality that he taught him an art that would never allow him to go hungry. This art was Chikan embroidery, which was later, passed on to others by Sher Khan. It is said that once Sher Khan perfected this art the traveller disappeared. It is believed that God himself taught this art of embroidering.

Chikankaari is a delicate art of embroidery that has become a major commercial activity in the city of Lucknow and its environs. Though the origin of Chikan work has not been affirmed perhaps it is the corrupt form of the Persian word ' chikin ' / ' chikeen ' or ' sequin ' which means a kind of cloth wrought with needlework. Amongst the many theories that go on to recognise the origin of this magnificent art the most believable is that it was brought by the Mughals from Persia and introduced through the Mughal courts into Dacca, East Bengal. Some say Nur Jahan, the beautiful wife of Mughal emperor, Jahangir, introduced that chikan.

Chikan embroidery is today synonymous to the perfect lifestyle of Lucknow . The art has been through the ages of perfection and rough weather but has survived the ravages of time to stand tough and unique form of embroidery. Some artisans achieved perfection to the level that even a needle could not pass through the fine jaali work of Chikan . The grace that the Chikan garment promises is incomparable to any other dressing style, the simplicity, grace and comfort are the key words where Chikan of Lucknow is concerned.

                                                                                                      CHIKAN AT A GLANCE

Although there are 32 kinds of stitches in Chikan work, broadly it can be grouped into six types, Taipchi, Bakhia, Khatao, Phanda & Murri and finally Jaali.

Taipchi : It is mostly done by women and is simple and the cheapest type of work. Sarees are prepared in large numbers and cost very little. This is the type of stem stitch with which the outlines are worked.

Bakhia : It is the most beautiful stitch in Chikankaari . In this the thread appears only below the surface and small stitches are seen on the right side for outlining the motif being delineated. Below the right side of the cloth, the thread crisscrosses thus making the covered surface opaque and creating a delicate effect of light and shade.

Khatao : It is another type of embroidery that gives the same type of effect but has greater delicacy. This, however, was considered a cheap imitation of Chikankaari . This form of work, however, one rarely comes across now. This stitch was a type of appliqué work prepared on calico material by placing calico over the surface and working out floral patterns on the cloth. The details were later worked out by simple stem stitch. This was so delicately handled out that only by close scrutiny was it possible to say that the piece had not been embroidered with bakhia stitched but appliquéd.

Phanda and Murri : These are the most characteristic forms of Chikan work and are used mostly to work out the centre of the flowers or to evolve the patterns such as angoori bale . Murri means rice shape and phanda millet shape. Though the stitch is essentially the French knot but it is worked out so finely that the two can hardly be compared.

Jaali : In the true Jaali work, the thread is never drawn. The Jaali is normally worked by teasing the warp and waft threads of the cloth apart and by preparing minute buttonhole stitches to make a hole of 3/16 th of an inch. There are different jaalies: Sidhuri, Madrasi, Calcutta Jaali.

The source of most design motifs in Chikankaari is Mughal. These motifs can also be seen in the ornamentation of Mughal buildings ike the Taj Mahal and other monuments of Fatehpur Sikri. In the Lucknow Chikan work off white of yellowish tussar from the wild Indian silkworm is used as the base for the embroidery. Now days the best work is found on the finest of Muslin. Though this art form has also been transformed on artificial fabrics like rayon and cambric. The beauty of the work lies in the simplicity of the colours used and the soothing effect it has. Mostly pastel shades are preferred for the base and the thread used for the embroidery is white. The finished dress is best suited for the summers.

The embroidery work itself is so fine and intricate that it takes nearly fifteen days to six months to complete depending on the design, dress and the expertise of the worker. The famous kurtas , caps, sarees and cotton shirts of Lucknow are world-renowned. It has a certain grace and elegance, which ensures that it, should never go out of style.

The beginning of the 18th century was the golden era for Chikan work and it lasted till the war of 1857. This was incidentally, the golden era for the ruling Nawabs as well. Nawabs of Avadh encouraged this art and patronised people who were good at their work and did something unique and innovative. Sometimes the artisans who produced extraordinary pieces of craft or showed exemplary skill in their fields were awarded with a jagir (estates). The two main patrons of the arts were Nawab Asif-Ud-Daula (1775-1789) and Nawab Wajid Ali Shah (1851-1856). It was due to these extravagant gifts bestowed on artisans, that acted like a magnet and attracted others from all over the country to the province of Avadh . Some of the finest artisans of those days were: Amir Hasan, Haji Mian, Dulba Sahab, Usman Ali, Puttan, Sadiq and Shamshad.

Another unique style that deserves special mention is  `Anookhi Booti' which was developed by Miyan Hasan Mirza. This type of Chikankari is so fine that the embroidery can only be seen and felt on one side of the malmal (silk) cloth.
When in Lucknow, temptations are many and each irresistible in its own way, but buying Chikan embroidered stuff is a ‘must buy' on the shopper's list. Every nook and corner of Lucknow houses Chikan shops, but the best place to buy is Chowk Bazaar, on the Khun - Khun Ji road or the Gol Darwaza lane at Chowk Crossing. You can try your bargaining skills to the brim. It is very difficult to get a best quote unless you are with a local or a penny smart traveller. Ladies Salwar Suit ranges from 400-1000 depending on the cloth used and the amount of work on it on the other hand gents Kurta will cost any thing from 300-800. But other stuff like table Linen, bed cover is also a good option to appreciate this art form. Why not Chikan to deck up your bedroom, living room, kitchen, and bathroom and you.

I personally appreciate the secular character of this art form where in all artisans are Muslims and shopkeepers selling Chikan are Hindus. Chikan is one such cordial thread that has kept the two diverse religions bound in utter harmony and brotherhood. The embroidery is so intricate that by the time artisan reaches the brim of his life he turns blind - never to appreciate the work of their future generations to whom they pass on this art in heritance.

SEWA: self-employed women's association is the most authentic place to buy your pick. Better be wary of copycats. This SEWA is located at Sitapur Road and is social organization for the upliftment of women artisans connected with this deteriorating art form.
You can find host of other showrooms lined up at the Khun Khun Ji road and inside the Gol Darwaza lane. You can very well bargain up to 20%. Some expert bargainers go beyond this limit too and you can get the best of stuff at real rock bottom prices. If you are a western geek try out the see-through Chikan Tops and Chiffon dress material. Ace designers like Ritu Berry, Tarun Tahiliani, Sandeep Khosla & Abu Jani are trying out the Chikan stuff for their creative designer outfits.